This week, I was sitting in the Rockaway lineup. It was crowded and there were a few waves rolling through, so most of the dudes were pretty serious-looking and competitive about getting on the good ones. I paddled for a wave and this voice yelled "GO FOR IT!" That encouragement powered me through, and I caught my funnest wave of the day. As I paddled back out, I saw my cheerleader: a 10-year-old fellow on a short board. We chatted for a bit, and he explained that he had been surfing for as long as he could remember. It was his birthday, and all he wanted was a video game, iPhone 6, money, and clothes. (I chuckled at that.) All the while, he hooted when sets came through and cheered when strangers flew down the line. It was rad! Slowly, there was a palpable change in the lineup: Guys were cracking smiles, shouting at each other to go, hollering at others' nose-rides, and striking up conversations. It reminded me that surfing is all about fun, and one attitude can really make a difference. Thanks, young friend, for teaching me that lesson.
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