When I was surfing with my buddy the other day, we decided to try to catch the save wave so he could take a picture of the two of us on his Go-Pro. "This one?" I asked, eyeing a growing bump in the sea. "No," he replied. "Not scary enough!" The perfect wave, he explained, needs to strike a little twinge of fear in your heart. "This one!" he shouted. As the large swell came towards me, I hesitated a second (eek!); enough to pace me behind the curl and cause me to purl. "What happened?" said Michael, after padding back out. "Aw, man, I blew it," I laughed. As cheesy as it sounds, I've been thinking a lot about this scene as an analogy for life. Hear me out: Most of truly important things in life involve risks, and that's terrifying. But you've got to just go for it, or the wave will just pass you by. And you have to commit, without hedging or waffling. More often than not, you'll get a sweet ride. Once in a while, you'll nosedive, get washing-machined around, and maybe break something. But at least you'll know that you tried!
Pic: My first busted board at Rockaway! I feel like it's a rite of passage. Photo by Vanessa. :)
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